Low season, or not, monsoons notwithstanding, A needs her water fix.
It's cruel to bring someone so enamored of water to an island circuited with such inviting beaches and day after day look out a window mumbling, "Damn... Look at those clouds... Nope... Can't go today either." Her trembling hands and the look in her eyes this morning told me that I had better not look out the window and we had better make at least an attempt to go to the beach, or I would end up dodging a homicidal water demon. She had her bathing suit on and a smile on her face when we got into the car. It was pouring rain.
We stopped for lunch on the way and sure enough, the clouds parted while we were eating, so we continued on to Nai Harn beach, a magical stretch of sand at the base of a group of steep hills covered with lush foliage at the southernmost tip of the island. The beach was practically deserted and for a practical reason - the waves were fierce and dangerous. Red flags are posted on the more popular beaches when it is too dangerous to go into the ocean and the red flags were flapping today.
Some tourists ignore the flags and are unable to resist the thrill of being buffeted by the fierce waves. Well, the crashing waves aren't the problem, it's the undertow; and it's unexpectedly strong. It will pull you off your feet, even in shallow water, and you might find yourself floundering, disoriented, with a mouthful of water, being tugged and scraped along the bottom and end up far from shore in a blink. A few tourists meet their end this way every year, despite the warnings and watchful eyes of the lifeguards. Below is the lifeguard's tower at Nai Harn today with the red flag blowing in the wind. There were three lifeguards on duty and only five people on the beach.
The lifeguards, sensing possible trouble, climbed out of the tower and positioned themselves on the beach, not far from the young ladies below. Sure enough, these gals were having a ball in the exciting waves, went way too far out and were very close to getting themselves into serious trouble. The lifeguards managed to get their attention and waved them in. We were happy to see them make it back to shore.
The tsunami hit Nai Harn hard, but there is little evidence of the devastation. Thailand has done an incredible and inspiring job of recovering from the catastrophe, but the skinned bark of this palm tree remembers and reminds.
A walked the beach and splashed about a bit. It wasn't a proper swim, by any means, but it erased the dangerous look she had in her eyes. We had about an hour at the beach before the next squall blew in and we drove home in yet another downpour.
It was rush hour.
And kids were getting out of school.
Some moms and dads pick up their kids after school, just like in suburbia USA - well, perhaps not exactly like in the USA.
Maybe the sun will shine tomorrow, the seas will calm down and we can make another attempt at ridding A of her trembles. I think it's a matter of survival for both of us.
